(Lauren)
Rishikesh is difficult to describe. I think it’s a town that needs to be experience directly or at least look at the pictures. The town is divided in half by the Ganges and the river here is brilliant emerald green and clean! I would have swum in it if it had been warmer. The town is surrounded by the towering Himalayan foothills. The sections of town are connected by two suspended pedestrian bridges so if you have a car on one side of town it takes several hours to get to the other side, but only minutes on foot! We checked into our room at the Jaipur Inn. We splurged for a ‘deluxe’ room with hot water, a balcony, and cable TV. Our balcony view was amazing right on the river and overlooking Lakshman Jhula (one of the suspended bridges).
I got sick on the train ride to Rishikesh (I’m just remembering that now). Getting sick on trains is not fun. First of all, it’s a squatter and believe me your legs begin to ache after a while no matter how much yoga you’ve been doing! I was still fatigued when we got to Rishikesh but the runs had stopped. Steve, however, was going down hill…
We still felt okay enough to take a hike and get out of town. We ventured to the waterfalls north of the town. They were beautiful, but Steve was not having that much fun with Delhi-belly beginning. I put him in bed for the night and that is where he stayed for the following day. We were hoping to get married on the first day of spring, but Steve was laid up. I ran down to the doctor and picked up the anti-biotic, electrolytes, and some mysterious red pill that the doc wanted him to take.
By the following day, Steve was back in action eating solids and walking around the town. We started our wedding preparations with the help of Anand (the yoga teacher and astrologer at our hotel that Karen recommended). He really arranged the whole thing we just showed up the following day. The hotel even took the lead on purchasing all the supplies for us and there were a lot of them!
Monday, April 20, 2009
Train to Haridwar
(Lauren)
We spent our last night in Bodh Gaya with Siddhartha and the orphans. Siddhartha played the sitar and gave Steve a set of Tablas and a kirtan (ritual chanting with call and response) ensued. It was a perfect evening. The stars were huge and the kids were singing as if their lives depended on it. So loud and full of passion. We shared dinner and promised to return to visit them when we are able (I imagine it will be a few years).
Ahhh, woke up the following morning at 3:30am to get to Gaya for our train to Haridwar. Our train was late, surprise surprise, and we sat at the Gaya train station between 4:30 and 6:30 am. To describe Gaya would be to describe my vision of purgatory filled with voyeurs. Not pleasant in anyway, except actually for the amazing chai I had from a random chai wallah.
Our 26-hour ride began. We first met a group of students attending Benares Hindu University. They really wanted to get to know us and crowded up in our compartment. I was still sleepy from getting up so early so was not into it, but Steve made a good friend in one of the guys. After they got off in Varanasi, we had much more room to spread out and rest. Eventually a kid came on who spent the first hour just staring at us and smiling shyly when we turned to look at him. He started asking us questions and turned out to be quite a smart little guy and apparently quite wealthy too. I discussed the poverty in India with him and was amazed that he didn’t seem affected by it at all. I realized to grow up in India surrounded by such widespread poverty one needs to form this kind of attitude to deal with the harsh surroundings. It does seem somewhat strange though when you have so much and everyone else has so little.
Steve is very restless at this point, we slept as best we could, and then woke up to the last leg of the trip. Of course the train was late which meant several more hours on it. We were bouncing with joy when we finally arrived in Haridwar, immediately hired a taxi to take us to Rishikesh. We were both stunned at how lovely Haridwar was. It looks like Varanasi, only clean and the Ganges here is emerald! There was an amazingly large Shiva statue that we passed leaving town.
We spent our last night in Bodh Gaya with Siddhartha and the orphans. Siddhartha played the sitar and gave Steve a set of Tablas and a kirtan (ritual chanting with call and response) ensued. It was a perfect evening. The stars were huge and the kids were singing as if their lives depended on it. So loud and full of passion. We shared dinner and promised to return to visit them when we are able (I imagine it will be a few years).
Ahhh, woke up the following morning at 3:30am to get to Gaya for our train to Haridwar. Our train was late, surprise surprise, and we sat at the Gaya train station between 4:30 and 6:30 am. To describe Gaya would be to describe my vision of purgatory filled with voyeurs. Not pleasant in anyway, except actually for the amazing chai I had from a random chai wallah.
Our 26-hour ride began. We first met a group of students attending Benares Hindu University. They really wanted to get to know us and crowded up in our compartment. I was still sleepy from getting up so early so was not into it, but Steve made a good friend in one of the guys. After they got off in Varanasi, we had much more room to spread out and rest. Eventually a kid came on who spent the first hour just staring at us and smiling shyly when we turned to look at him. He started asking us questions and turned out to be quite a smart little guy and apparently quite wealthy too. I discussed the poverty in India with him and was amazed that he didn’t seem affected by it at all. I realized to grow up in India surrounded by such widespread poverty one needs to form this kind of attitude to deal with the harsh surroundings. It does seem somewhat strange though when you have so much and everyone else has so little.
Steve is very restless at this point, we slept as best we could, and then woke up to the last leg of the trip. Of course the train was late which meant several more hours on it. We were bouncing with joy when we finally arrived in Haridwar, immediately hired a taxi to take us to Rishikesh. We were both stunned at how lovely Haridwar was. It looks like Varanasi, only clean and the Ganges here is emerald! There was an amazingly large Shiva statue that we passed leaving town.
Bodh Gaya
(Lauren)
Okay so it took me a really long time to get settled again in the US and feel like I have even a free minute to finish the blog (well not really even, I’m at work write not writing this). Although it is after the fact, I feel that I have to do the trip justice and give it an ending.
So here it goes….
Outside of spending time with Siddhartha and the orphans (this seems like such an outdated term), we took many naps in Bodh Gaya as the heat was oppressive. When not napping, we were spending time at the Mahabodhi temple or visiting the other stunning Buddhist temples in the town. On one of our trips to visit temples, a local kid joined us. He was very sweet and talkative, but I kept ignoring him as did Steve for the most part. The amount of people that come up to you in India and want something from you can be overwhelming. Everyone deals with this on slot differently, my way is to ignore. I realized after the kid parted ways with us that he wanted nothing more than to be our friend and get to know us. He wanted nothing from us. I still feel guilty as I’m typing this for the way I treated him.
After we parted with the kid, we went to the Japanese temple for an hour of Zen meditation. It began with a Zen monk chanting in Japanese for about 10 minutes and then there was just silence. I realized sitting there how rusty my concentration has become. It was excruciating sitting still for the hour even though I have done it hundreds of times in the past. Steve and I spoke about it afterwards and shared this sentiment. We made a pact to keep up a meditation practice when we return home (so far Steve is upholding the agreement and I am slacking!)
We spent every evening at dusk at the Mahabodhi. There is truly nothing like it. It’s almost bringing me to tears in my cubicle right now remembering it. Such a blend of cultures, nationalities, and practices surrounding a magnificent banyan tree. Just sit below the tree for a while and you will see monks, nuns, and lay people chanting, prostrating, meditating, tourist milling, etc. The lighting is amazing too, turning the whole scene into fire.
Okay so it took me a really long time to get settled again in the US and feel like I have even a free minute to finish the blog (well not really even, I’m at work write not writing this). Although it is after the fact, I feel that I have to do the trip justice and give it an ending.
So here it goes….
Outside of spending time with Siddhartha and the orphans (this seems like such an outdated term), we took many naps in Bodh Gaya as the heat was oppressive. When not napping, we were spending time at the Mahabodhi temple or visiting the other stunning Buddhist temples in the town. On one of our trips to visit temples, a local kid joined us. He was very sweet and talkative, but I kept ignoring him as did Steve for the most part. The amount of people that come up to you in India and want something from you can be overwhelming. Everyone deals with this on slot differently, my way is to ignore. I realized after the kid parted ways with us that he wanted nothing more than to be our friend and get to know us. He wanted nothing from us. I still feel guilty as I’m typing this for the way I treated him.
After we parted with the kid, we went to the Japanese temple for an hour of Zen meditation. It began with a Zen monk chanting in Japanese for about 10 minutes and then there was just silence. I realized sitting there how rusty my concentration has become. It was excruciating sitting still for the hour even though I have done it hundreds of times in the past. Steve and I spoke about it afterwards and shared this sentiment. We made a pact to keep up a meditation practice when we return home (so far Steve is upholding the agreement and I am slacking!)
We spent every evening at dusk at the Mahabodhi. There is truly nothing like it. It’s almost bringing me to tears in my cubicle right now remembering it. Such a blend of cultures, nationalities, and practices surrounding a magnificent banyan tree. Just sit below the tree for a while and you will see monks, nuns, and lay people chanting, prostrating, meditating, tourist milling, etc. The lighting is amazing too, turning the whole scene into fire.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Insanity (steve)
OK, so we had our marriage ceremony in Rishikesh on the 23rd. It was incredible. Two hours long and full of such deep and complicated ceremony it would be almost impossible to describe. We took plenty of pictures.
In other news, I fell down a flight of stone stairs last night directly onto my shoulder/nose. It's miraculous I did not die or break anything, honestly. People around us (including Lauren, whom I felt terrible for) were panicking, with blood pouring out of my face. Lauren says it's the worst fall she's ever seen. Hospital did x-rays and my nose is not broken, how I have no idea. There's still some bleeding and a lot of swelling, but I am fine. I am meant to live longer, obviously. Things here are great otherwise. McLeod Ganj is amazing; it's where the Dalai Lama lives when he's not traveling. Stunning landscape. Life is amazing...
In other news, I fell down a flight of stone stairs last night directly onto my shoulder/nose. It's miraculous I did not die or break anything, honestly. People around us (including Lauren, whom I felt terrible for) were panicking, with blood pouring out of my face. Lauren says it's the worst fall she's ever seen. Hospital did x-rays and my nose is not broken, how I have no idea. There's still some bleeding and a lot of swelling, but I am fine. I am meant to live longer, obviously. Things here are great otherwise. McLeod Ganj is amazing; it's where the Dalai Lama lives when he's not traveling. Stunning landscape. Life is amazing...
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Niranjana Welfare Trust
(Lauren) I cannot write enough of the amazing work that Siddhartha has done since we had last met. Here is a guy for one of the poorest areas of India, when I met him 10 years ago he had big plans to help the children of Bihar. I had my doubts how this would be possible for him, but 10 years later he has surpassed my wildest expectations! He started an orphanage that shelters about 40 children, a school that teaches about 350 students, and a health clinic that people travel from a 30 mile radius to visit. We feel in love with the staff and children and are so passionate to come home and fund raise for them to support this amazing work. I spoke to a woman last night who told me that people might not be interested in what we saw in India and might not give, but we really hope this is not the case. Being in the midst of this kind of poverty and desparation has changed both of us and I am hoping we can help in whatever way we can. It really puts things in perspective: it take about 40$ a month to house a child at the orphanage so how can I return and buy an un-needed dress when a child could be learning in school or performing child labor and we as Americans have so much power with our dollar, yes even in a weak economy. I think the current economic situation can cause a tendency for people to seal up their wallets, but how amazing would it be if we did the opposite. if this time could instead be an awakening that hot water, big houses and cars, freedom are not a right but a priveledge that few are born with? I can no longer turn my back. rant end.
better (Steve)
Feeling much better at the moment after spending all of yesterday in bed and bathroom. It's amazing how many conflicting things happen in this country at any given time. This evening we walked down to the ruins of the ashram where the Beatles stayed in '68. It was very peaceful, a beautiful location at the lower end of town. The sunset over the Ganges there was stunning. Then we had a very relaxing meal lying on some cushions and tomorrow it's the wedding ceremony! Life is crazy...
Bodh Gaya
The train right to Bodh Gaya was a hoot! We decided to take 'sleeper' class which is a cheaper class since we were not spending the night, and boy did we meet some characters. The most memorable was Vivek. Vivek at first seemed just manic. Telling us stories, asking our opinion of Bollywood and Slumdog Millionaire, etc. Another Indian man in our car kept pointing to Vivek and making a 'crazy' gesture when he caught my eye. There were two sweet Japanese guys who did not speak much english. Vivek, it turned out, was actually quite drunk. He had a water bottle and let me smell it at one point and I believe it was filled with a type of straight up moonshine! As he became drunker, he got more out of control and the other Indians kept trying to throw he out, but he would reappear. The strange thing about Vivek was that he was very intelligent and quite witty. He explained that he was the only man alive that could 'bake a birthday cake in a pressure cooker' and offered us as he put it glimpes of 'mind-blowing history' as he recounted the dates and events of both world wars. It turned out also he did not have a ticket to ride so the ticket collector tried to throw him off which started a fight in our car and eventually Vivek passed out down the hall in another berth.
Siddhartha (my dear Indian friend that I met in college in 1999) picked us up from the train station in Gaya and dropped us at the Burmese Vihar (my home for 4 months junior year of college for the Buddhist Studies program) I had returned here in 2003, but it was so nice to come back. Like coming home. In fact, everyone remembered me, not by name, but by face. So special after three hectic large cities to come here! We passed out.
Breakfast was at the 'Pole Pole' (tent restaurant across the street that has been there for ever) Siddhartha's charity picked us up to take us to Sujata village across the 'river' no river right now b/c it is dry season....
Siddhartha (my dear Indian friend that I met in college in 1999) picked us up from the train station in Gaya and dropped us at the Burmese Vihar (my home for 4 months junior year of college for the Buddhist Studies program) I had returned here in 2003, but it was so nice to come back. Like coming home. In fact, everyone remembered me, not by name, but by face. So special after three hectic large cities to come here! We passed out.
Breakfast was at the 'Pole Pole' (tent restaurant across the street that has been there for ever) Siddhartha's charity picked us up to take us to Sujata village across the 'river' no river right now b/c it is dry season....
Yoga with Raju
(Lauren) Update: Steve is worlds better after hefty doses of cipro and a magic red pill (we are not sure what this one is?).
I forgot to mention our yoga teacher in Varanasi- Raju. Raju is cool beans. He studied with several teachers up in the himalayas and now teachers 5 2-hour classes every day! We loved working with him and were able to get some private lessons. He put me in some postures I have only seen in yoga journal and other photos. Several I though no way in hell am I getting into that and then he would yell- "reach, go, lift, now hold!!" and then would grab my camera and photograph me. I wish I could only post these! He wants me to return and be his student for a few months. I would love to and will stay open to this possibility.
He is also a vedic astrologer and freely offered me a spontaneous reading. On the first day. He explained that I hold emotion tight within me and that the emotions well up in my yoga practice. Actually every intuitive that I have spoken with has told me the same thing, but it was nice to have this reminder.
The next day he told me much more (some good things here, but my head has not blown up too much): he said that in a few years (about three) I would have a big break through, he implied fame of some sort and that I would be immensely successful. He read my palm and saw that I have clashes with both my mom and sister. He said that I hold much power inside the kind of power that could rule an entire country and if I tuned into it I could use this power for whatever I seek. He saw that my largest obstacle is trouble with communication, which is the other thing I am already aware of. Steve was a bit sore he took no interest in his palm; his theory is that he has a crush on me, but I don't think so, or would rather not.
I forgot to mention our yoga teacher in Varanasi- Raju. Raju is cool beans. He studied with several teachers up in the himalayas and now teachers 5 2-hour classes every day! We loved working with him and were able to get some private lessons. He put me in some postures I have only seen in yoga journal and other photos. Several I though no way in hell am I getting into that and then he would yell- "reach, go, lift, now hold!!" and then would grab my camera and photograph me. I wish I could only post these! He wants me to return and be his student for a few months. I would love to and will stay open to this possibility.
He is also a vedic astrologer and freely offered me a spontaneous reading. On the first day. He explained that I hold emotion tight within me and that the emotions well up in my yoga practice. Actually every intuitive that I have spoken with has told me the same thing, but it was nice to have this reminder.
The next day he told me much more (some good things here, but my head has not blown up too much): he said that in a few years (about three) I would have a big break through, he implied fame of some sort and that I would be immensely successful. He read my palm and saw that I have clashes with both my mom and sister. He said that I hold much power inside the kind of power that could rule an entire country and if I tuned into it I could use this power for whatever I seek. He saw that my largest obstacle is trouble with communication, which is the other thing I am already aware of. Steve was a bit sore he took no interest in his palm; his theory is that he has a crush on me, but I don't think so, or would rather not.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
Dead kids and dogs in the Ganges
(Lauren) I realize that I am writing about a lot of horrible things, but I assure you we are having a wonderful time and yes, Jannon, many third-eye openings!!
That night we sat at the main cremation ghat (where they burn bodies) and have for thousands of years. In fact, Varanasi is over 3,000 years old! Steve was overwhelmed by this as having never confronted human death in this way. We watch human heads and feet and everything other part go up in flames. This might disgust some of you who are reading this, but I am a firm believer that the way we hide death in the USA is destructive. Many of us are so out of touch with our mortality and therefore taken this precious fleeting life for granted. Anyway, we sat for a long time and learned that the only people who are burn in the pyre are married Hindus everyone else is thrown directly into the ganges. So children, unmarried women, pregnant women, holy sadhus and priest whole corpses chucked in. We watched this happen... a boat carried several children out into the middle of the river and dropped them in. Steve and I are amazed to think of how many hundreds of thousands of bodies are sitting there in front of us at the bottom of the ganges!
Our last morning we took a boat ride at sunrise to watch the bathers and all the religious rites take place. There is really no place like this, and today the energy is again calm and wonderfully peaceful in town. A furry carcass floated by and I asked the boat wallah what is this?, A dead dog floating down the river.
So get this, countless human and animal bodies floating in the ganges here... AND people bath daily here, swim here, DRINK the water here, brush their teeth in it, wash their clothes and everything else you can imagine. Did I mention that the sewage is also emptied into it. I cannot seem to expand my mind to really get how this all works, but this is Varanasi and there are dolphins. yep, a special fresh water ganga dolphin that is only found here! I have seem them jump next to a corpse bopping around out there. Yes you must come here to believe this insanity.
I must admit I love Varanasi and so do the people who live here. It is believed among Hindus that if you die here you will stop the cycle of reincarnation and find moksha or liberation.
Now the evening train to Bodh Gaya...
That night we sat at the main cremation ghat (where they burn bodies) and have for thousands of years. In fact, Varanasi is over 3,000 years old! Steve was overwhelmed by this as having never confronted human death in this way. We watch human heads and feet and everything other part go up in flames. This might disgust some of you who are reading this, but I am a firm believer that the way we hide death in the USA is destructive. Many of us are so out of touch with our mortality and therefore taken this precious fleeting life for granted. Anyway, we sat for a long time and learned that the only people who are burn in the pyre are married Hindus everyone else is thrown directly into the ganges. So children, unmarried women, pregnant women, holy sadhus and priest whole corpses chucked in. We watched this happen... a boat carried several children out into the middle of the river and dropped them in. Steve and I are amazed to think of how many hundreds of thousands of bodies are sitting there in front of us at the bottom of the ganges!
Our last morning we took a boat ride at sunrise to watch the bathers and all the religious rites take place. There is really no place like this, and today the energy is again calm and wonderfully peaceful in town. A furry carcass floated by and I asked the boat wallah what is this?, A dead dog floating down the river.
So get this, countless human and animal bodies floating in the ganges here... AND people bath daily here, swim here, DRINK the water here, brush their teeth in it, wash their clothes and everything else you can imagine. Did I mention that the sewage is also emptied into it. I cannot seem to expand my mind to really get how this all works, but this is Varanasi and there are dolphins. yep, a special fresh water ganga dolphin that is only found here! I have seem them jump next to a corpse bopping around out there. Yes you must come here to believe this insanity.
I must admit I love Varanasi and so do the people who live here. It is believed among Hindus that if you die here you will stop the cycle of reincarnation and find moksha or liberation.
Now the evening train to Bodh Gaya...
Varanasi, Benares, or Kashi (City of Light)
(Lauren)
Following our 'grand' entrance into Varanasi, we found our hotel had overbooked and we did not have a room. The owner of the Hotel Alka is a cute man and reminds of Ted (hi Ted). He brought us to his 'other' hotel not directly on the ghats (piers on the ganges), but much nicer and quieter than the one we had chosen. Our room was huge with hot water!! and a nice open air court yard. We spent the day walking along the ghats. Met a nice hippy from Hawaii named Sky and watched the evening puja with him. We tooks some amazing photos (wish I was savvy enough) to post but will when I return to US.
The next day was more exploring, sleeping (still recovering from jet lag) We treated ourselves to a lavish visit at the Hotel Surya where we both got Ayurvedic massages and ate at their plush restaurant overlooking the garden.
The energy in Varanasi is not as positive as I remember it for these last two days. I think due to Holi, the men are totally WASTED and I mean totally. Liked massive amount of a moonshine equivalent, hash, and tobacco. My theory is b/c sexuality is repressed here and most men only have sex with the wives (often arranged) and maybe some prostitutes, when a big holiday like Holi come they go out of their minds and feel free to act recklessly. The Indian women seem to know this and stay shut in, but since this was our only time in Varanasi, I and other western women were out and about. Many Indian men already view western women as loose with their sexuality... and so the combo of all of this leads to trouble for the traveling ladies. Hence I was grabbed about 4 times by random men and many countless comments were made. I was able to overlook most of this, but did get mad at Steve on several occasions for not defending my honor. I'm not sure what I expected him to do, but he did nothing and that pissed me off. I believe he had no idea what to do and was totally unprepared to deal with this kind of attack. In retrospect if he had done anything it probably would had made the situation worse.
The worst grab was a group of men who came up behind me and once grabbed my butt, I turned around and began beating him and yelling every mean thing I could invent in the moment. Steve had no idea what was happening. It's actually funny, Indian men try these type of things and then when you confront them, they become babies and apologize and run away. Still at the time, I was not laughing and hit Steve out of frustration and then broke down in the restaurant a few moment later bawling. I think its just the feeling of violation is overwhelming, scary, and leaves on in a state of feeling very very far from home.
Following our 'grand' entrance into Varanasi, we found our hotel had overbooked and we did not have a room. The owner of the Hotel Alka is a cute man and reminds of Ted (hi Ted). He brought us to his 'other' hotel not directly on the ghats (piers on the ganges), but much nicer and quieter than the one we had chosen. Our room was huge with hot water!! and a nice open air court yard. We spent the day walking along the ghats. Met a nice hippy from Hawaii named Sky and watched the evening puja with him. We tooks some amazing photos (wish I was savvy enough) to post but will when I return to US.
The next day was more exploring, sleeping (still recovering from jet lag) We treated ourselves to a lavish visit at the Hotel Surya where we both got Ayurvedic massages and ate at their plush restaurant overlooking the garden.
The energy in Varanasi is not as positive as I remember it for these last two days. I think due to Holi, the men are totally WASTED and I mean totally. Liked massive amount of a moonshine equivalent, hash, and tobacco. My theory is b/c sexuality is repressed here and most men only have sex with the wives (often arranged) and maybe some prostitutes, when a big holiday like Holi come they go out of their minds and feel free to act recklessly. The Indian women seem to know this and stay shut in, but since this was our only time in Varanasi, I and other western women were out and about. Many Indian men already view western women as loose with their sexuality... and so the combo of all of this leads to trouble for the traveling ladies. Hence I was grabbed about 4 times by random men and many countless comments were made. I was able to overlook most of this, but did get mad at Steve on several occasions for not defending my honor. I'm not sure what I expected him to do, but he did nothing and that pissed me off. I believe he had no idea what to do and was totally unprepared to deal with this kind of attack. In retrospect if he had done anything it probably would had made the situation worse.
The worst grab was a group of men who came up behind me and once grabbed my butt, I turned around and began beating him and yelling every mean thing I could invent in the moment. Steve had no idea what was happening. It's actually funny, Indian men try these type of things and then when you confront them, they become babies and apologize and run away. Still at the time, I was not laughing and hit Steve out of frustration and then broke down in the restaurant a few moment later bawling. I think its just the feeling of violation is overwhelming, scary, and leaves on in a state of feeling very very far from home.
Chicken in Bodh Gaya
(Lauren)Update:
We are still in Rishikesh and are both madly in love with the place, the ganga, the quirky people watching, ganga aarti, food, and scenery the mountains here are beautiful and it is the first stop where the air is fresh and clean. I could stay here much longer than I am able this trip, so much return for a yoga intensive at some point.
Steve has been quite sick. But don't worry, he is getting better. We are convinced it is the chicken that he ate in Bodh Gaya. I feel responsible for that b/c I know better than to let someone eat meat in Bodh Gaya. There are power outages almost daily and hence the meat warms up and forms bacteria. But there was this new fancy Thai restaurant there and it was deceivingly nice so we went all out, Steve got a chicken curry & me a papaya salad (w/ uncooked veggies) two big no-nos and we have been dealing with the it ever since.
Yesterday we took an intense yoga class and I think that brough steve's tummy trouble to the surface with awful cramping and a fever last night. I picked him up cipro today, electrolytes, bananas; this combined w/ sleep seems to be knocking it out and he is feeling much better, but very weak and is in bed. poor babe.
We are still in Rishikesh and are both madly in love with the place, the ganga, the quirky people watching, ganga aarti, food, and scenery the mountains here are beautiful and it is the first stop where the air is fresh and clean. I could stay here much longer than I am able this trip, so much return for a yoga intensive at some point.
Steve has been quite sick. But don't worry, he is getting better. We are convinced it is the chicken that he ate in Bodh Gaya. I feel responsible for that b/c I know better than to let someone eat meat in Bodh Gaya. There are power outages almost daily and hence the meat warms up and forms bacteria. But there was this new fancy Thai restaurant there and it was deceivingly nice so we went all out, Steve got a chicken curry & me a papaya salad (w/ uncooked veggies) two big no-nos and we have been dealing with the it ever since.
Yesterday we took an intense yoga class and I think that brough steve's tummy trouble to the surface with awful cramping and a fever last night. I picked him up cipro today, electrolytes, bananas; this combined w/ sleep seems to be knocking it out and he is feeling much better, but very weak and is in bed. poor babe.
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Holi
(Lauren)
We had a nice time on the overnight, not too crowded and we made friends with a nice Indian guy named Vipal who works for Tata International and is soon moving to Switzerland.
On the way into Varanasi, we could watch Holi from the safety of our window. Men drunk and high throwing color on each other. It was spectacular to watch! Vipal warned us that things would be crazy until around 2pm and invited us to wait in the station waiting room with him. We ignored the warning, found an overpriced rickshaw and ventured into town to get to the hotel.
The view in was crazy, color flying everywhere men dancing and singing in the street. I looked over at one point and Steve was getting hit with red all in the face from a passing motorcycle. The rickshaw could only get us about a mile from our hotel and we had to walk in. Of course as soon as we had paid him, he instructed those around us to begin throwing color on us. Us our luggage, everything. This scene would have been a lot of fun if I was a man, but being the only woman out, it was not so fun, a few men tried to drunkenly hug me, luckily a kid led us through the maze like alleys of Old Varanasi to our hotel. Sweet Oasis from the chaos!
Our room was not ready so we ventured to breakfast with an amazing view of the great ganges.
To be cont...... need to sleep!
We had a nice time on the overnight, not too crowded and we made friends with a nice Indian guy named Vipal who works for Tata International and is soon moving to Switzerland.
On the way into Varanasi, we could watch Holi from the safety of our window. Men drunk and high throwing color on each other. It was spectacular to watch! Vipal warned us that things would be crazy until around 2pm and invited us to wait in the station waiting room with him. We ignored the warning, found an overpriced rickshaw and ventured into town to get to the hotel.
The view in was crazy, color flying everywhere men dancing and singing in the street. I looked over at one point and Steve was getting hit with red all in the face from a passing motorcycle. The rickshaw could only get us about a mile from our hotel and we had to walk in. Of course as soon as we had paid him, he instructed those around us to begin throwing color on us. Us our luggage, everything. This scene would have been a lot of fun if I was a man, but being the only woman out, it was not so fun, a few men tried to drunkenly hug me, luckily a kid led us through the maze like alleys of Old Varanasi to our hotel. Sweet Oasis from the chaos!
Our room was not ready so we ventured to breakfast with an amazing view of the great ganges.
To be cont...... need to sleep!
Taj Mahal and Agra
(Lauren)
Steve did not believe the taxi would be there, but he was and so began our journey to Agra. The trip was a treat to just sit back and be chaffeured without hassle. However, the towns between Delhi and Agra are very very depressing. It's poverty, but it urban dusty cement poverty. At least in the countryside the kids have grass or fields to play in here it is just dust, dirt, and cement.
We decided to check into a hotel in Agra to put our stuff down for the day. The roof top restaurant had an amazing view of the Taj and we sat mesmorized as we drank our nes cafe and chai. The tickets to the Taj are expensive, well for India, but it was all well worth it. Stunning, glowing, amazing peacefulness is the best way to sum up the Taj. I could have spend a month just in its presence. Master piece. We had a lot of fun posing for pictures with rich Indian tourist who wanted us in their photos. I felt a bit like a celeb!
We conked out for a bit in the room. Jet lag still awful. Then ventured to the Agra Fort which was almost as amazing as the Taj itself. Tons of ruins to explore, palaces, etc. We had a final dinner on the roof and then headed to the train station for our overnight to Varanasi.
Steve did not believe the taxi would be there, but he was and so began our journey to Agra. The trip was a treat to just sit back and be chaffeured without hassle. However, the towns between Delhi and Agra are very very depressing. It's poverty, but it urban dusty cement poverty. At least in the countryside the kids have grass or fields to play in here it is just dust, dirt, and cement.
We decided to check into a hotel in Agra to put our stuff down for the day. The roof top restaurant had an amazing view of the Taj and we sat mesmorized as we drank our nes cafe and chai. The tickets to the Taj are expensive, well for India, but it was all well worth it. Stunning, glowing, amazing peacefulness is the best way to sum up the Taj. I could have spend a month just in its presence. Master piece. We had a lot of fun posing for pictures with rich Indian tourist who wanted us in their photos. I felt a bit like a celeb!
We conked out for a bit in the room. Jet lag still awful. Then ventured to the Agra Fort which was almost as amazing as the Taj itself. Tons of ruins to explore, palaces, etc. We had a final dinner on the roof and then headed to the train station for our overnight to Varanasi.
quick from Rishikesh (Steve)
OK, just arrived today in Rishikesh after a 26 hour (!) train ride from Bodhgaya. Train ride was trying, but Bodhgaya was amazing, mainly b/c we visited an orphanage and school started by a friend of Lauren's (from when she was there in 1999) named Siddartha. He is doing amazing things in one of the poorest areas of India, taking 25 orphans and caring for them while also maintaining (with a large group of teachers) a 325-student school. Lauren and I are very committed to working to raise money for his project when we get back. We spent a lot of time with the kids, and their lives have literally been saved by this orphanage. It moved both of us so much to be around all that generosity. In lighter news, Rishikesh is incredible, and incredibly full of westerners. We might go visit the ruins of the ashram where the Beatles stayed in '68 after yoga tomorrow morning. Crazy times...
Land of Sweets and Spice
(Lauren) I am attempting to go back and recount everything that has happened, but on a current note, I am getting over 'delhi belly' and so my mind is a bit blown out and exhausted from it. I just ate my first solid meal in 24 hours.
Day 1- Delhi
After about 3 hours of sleep, Steve and I 'woke' up around 6am India time and decided to venture out and start getting down to business b/c we wanted to get the heck of Delhi. We had a great breakfast and then headed to the train station where we were scammed. Here's how it when down: We try to enter the train station and the train employee! the guy running the metal detector tells us the ticketing office is no longer in the station and is now around the corner. He showed us his badge to prove it. Next thing we know we were off in a motor rickshaw being whisked away to a 'government' travel agency. They told us there were no tickets out of Delhi to either Agra or Varanasi due to Holi for the next 4 days! They would hire us a taxi to take us to Agra and then book a train to Varanasi from there. He quoted us 90$ per person which is about double the amount this should cost. I knew this, but in my jet-lagged fog, I couldn't face returning to the train station again and what if it was true? So out came the plastic and our travel was booked.
We ventured to Connaught Place, where we were quickly preyed on. The most annoying was the ear cleaner guy who tried to clean Steve's ears w/out permission.
After much ado, we found the Delhi subway, designed recently by a Japanese team is amazingly clean and functional. Our ride cost about 25 cents and we were quickly in Old Delhi. I don't think I have the ability to describe how congested and crazy old Delhi is. Wild wild place, but a bit much for two jet-lagged tourists. Our next mission was to find our wedding rings. There is a row of all jewelry shops. I look for a while and nothing was quite right and then there it was. Its a antique diamond sterling silver ring. it's gorgeous and it fit me like a glove. Indians believe that objects are made with a name on it and the shop keeper insisted this ring was made with mine even though it is over 40 years old. Steve opted for a simple band. He bought a gold one but had it polished to match mine. They were perfect.
Next we tried to get a bike rickshaw to take us to lunch. We could tell the driver did not really understand where to take us, but thought he would somehow figure it out. He didn't and we ended up at the largest mosque in India, Jama Masjid. It was awful, us complaining him not understanding, crowd gathering. We realized to argue was futile and jumped out. A kid about 6 years old started begging for money and followed us for about 10 minutes pulling on Steve, it was awful.
After a tasty Indian lunch we picked up our rings and heading back to our hotel. We decided to take the subway again. The problem was the subway exit left us on one side of the enormous Delhi train station and by the time we circled it to our neighborhood on the other side, it was about a 45 minute walk and I was dying of exhaustion. Steve bought some clothes and after showers and a nice meal on a roof top restaurant, we felt much much better. Then to bed early for our 6am tax ride to Agra.
Day 1- Delhi
After about 3 hours of sleep, Steve and I 'woke' up around 6am India time and decided to venture out and start getting down to business b/c we wanted to get the heck of Delhi. We had a great breakfast and then headed to the train station where we were scammed. Here's how it when down: We try to enter the train station and the train employee! the guy running the metal detector tells us the ticketing office is no longer in the station and is now around the corner. He showed us his badge to prove it. Next thing we know we were off in a motor rickshaw being whisked away to a 'government' travel agency. They told us there were no tickets out of Delhi to either Agra or Varanasi due to Holi for the next 4 days! They would hire us a taxi to take us to Agra and then book a train to Varanasi from there. He quoted us 90$ per person which is about double the amount this should cost. I knew this, but in my jet-lagged fog, I couldn't face returning to the train station again and what if it was true? So out came the plastic and our travel was booked.
We ventured to Connaught Place, where we were quickly preyed on. The most annoying was the ear cleaner guy who tried to clean Steve's ears w/out permission.
After much ado, we found the Delhi subway, designed recently by a Japanese team is amazingly clean and functional. Our ride cost about 25 cents and we were quickly in Old Delhi. I don't think I have the ability to describe how congested and crazy old Delhi is. Wild wild place, but a bit much for two jet-lagged tourists. Our next mission was to find our wedding rings. There is a row of all jewelry shops. I look for a while and nothing was quite right and then there it was. Its a antique diamond sterling silver ring. it's gorgeous and it fit me like a glove. Indians believe that objects are made with a name on it and the shop keeper insisted this ring was made with mine even though it is over 40 years old. Steve opted for a simple band. He bought a gold one but had it polished to match mine. They were perfect.
Next we tried to get a bike rickshaw to take us to lunch. We could tell the driver did not really understand where to take us, but thought he would somehow figure it out. He didn't and we ended up at the largest mosque in India, Jama Masjid. It was awful, us complaining him not understanding, crowd gathering. We realized to argue was futile and jumped out. A kid about 6 years old started begging for money and followed us for about 10 minutes pulling on Steve, it was awful.
After a tasty Indian lunch we picked up our rings and heading back to our hotel. We decided to take the subway again. The problem was the subway exit left us on one side of the enormous Delhi train station and by the time we circled it to our neighborhood on the other side, it was about a 45 minute walk and I was dying of exhaustion. Steve bought some clothes and after showers and a nice meal on a roof top restaurant, we felt much much better. Then to bed early for our 6am tax ride to Agra.
Monday, March 16, 2009
here it is
Apologies for the lack of posts. Things have been overwhelming, mostly in an amazing way. I am writing from Bodh Gaya, and we just came from the Mahabodhi temple and the Buddha tree. Truly awe-inspiring. To recap, we came into Delhi on the morning of the 9th, around 2 AM, and the first thing I noticed were my eyes and lungs burning. Easily the most polluted place I have ever been. The driving in India cannot really be explained. The most chaotic thing I have ever experienced, with bikes, motorcycles, rickshaws, trucks, etc. all coming together at once, without any real observed lanes to speak of. Anyway, Delhi was good overall, with a few hassles, then we moved onto Agra to see the Taj Mahal. It’s all true about the Taj, it really is an incredibly perfect thing. The design is perfectly symmetrical, and just being near it gives you a feeling of deep peace, even with all the tourists. Agra Fort was also amazing. Then it was onto Varanasi, where things really began to get interesting. More soon…
Plane
(Lauren)
Steve & I were blessed on the trip to Frankfurt. The nice man at United Airlines bumped us up to First class and we flew in incredible style. Coach from Frankfurt to Delhi was cramped, but decent. Customs was extremely long in Delhi and boy were we out of it as it was 1:30am there. After our wait, we gathered up our bags and met our driver. Steve definitely appeared to be in shock especially when we walked to the car and passed some of India’s shadiest characters and then there was the drive…. Ah the driving in India, you feel as if your life is about to end with every maneuver yet somehow things work out, most of the time. I don’t think most Americans can really comprehend chicken until had been on the roads of India.
Of course, our driver wanted baksheesh or money. We gave him a generous tip and he still gave us hassle. Insert tough skin now.
Our room was extremely depressing small with two twin beds. The shower was crap and somehow freezing even though the temp outside was 70s. I forgot that it is not customary at Indian budget hotels to have sheets so we tried to sleep under some scarves I brought from home.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Leaving
(Steve) About to walk out the door to the airport. Lauren tells me this trip will change me irrevocably. I am ready...
Day of Departure...
(Lauren) We are preparing to leave and there is feels like so much and so little to do at the same time. We are hardly packing anything just a few change of clothes, passports, and guidebooks, etc. I am starting to feel some nerves b/c Steve is relying on me to be the 'guide' and I hoping I can remember how to navigate the country w/out getting ripped off. I think I can. I think I can.
I can't wait to see the look on Steve's face when we arrive in Delhi, it will be priceless. Culture Shock is overwhelming, but I value it as one of the most transformational experiences in my life and can't wait to share it with Steve. Ha!
I can't wait to see the look on Steve's face when we arrive in Delhi, it will be priceless. Culture Shock is overwhelming, but I value it as one of the most transformational experiences in my life and can't wait to share it with Steve. Ha!
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